Why not... I am optimistic! Here's what "The Old Farmer's Almanac" says...
​Cauliflower is a sun-loving, cool-season crop to grow in spring and fall. It can be a temperamental plant in the garden because it does not tolerate heat or cold—so it’s not best for beginners unless you like a challenge! 

This vegetable’s name comes from the Latin words caulis, for cabbage, and floris, for flower. It’s a descendent of wild cabbage! Though usually white, cauliflower does come in other colors including purple, yellow, and orange.
Cauliflower can be a challenge for the beginner gardeners because it requires consistently cool temperatures with temperatures in the 60°Fs. Otherwise, it may prematurely “button”—form small, button-size heads—rather than forming a single, large head.

PLANTING
  • Soil needs to be very rich in organic matter; mix aged manure and/or compost 
  • Cauliflower also needs extra nutrients. Apply 5-10-10 fertilizer. Fertile soil holds in moisture to prevent heads from “buttoning.”
  • It is best to start cauliflower from small nursery plants versus sowing seeds.
  • Plant a fall crop 6 to 8 weeks before the first fall frost date but after daytime temperatures are regularly below 75°F. Shade plants from heat, if necessary.
  • Add mulch to conserve moisture.
CARE
  • Cauliflower dislikes any interruption to its growth. Change, in the form of temperature, moisture, soil nutrition, or insects, can cause the plants to develop a head prematurely or ruin an existing one.
  • Water regularly with 2 inches of water each week; even with normal rainfall, this usually requires supplemental watering.
  • For best growth, side-dress the plants with a high-nitrogen fertilizer 3 t o 4 weeks after transplanting.
  • Note that the cauliflower will start out as a loose head and that it takes time for the head to fully form. Many varieties take at least 75 to 85 days from transplant. Be patient!
  • When the curd (the white head) is 2 to 3 inches in diameter, blanch it: Tie the outer leaves together over the head and secure with a rubber band, tape, or twine to keep light out. (This is not necessary for self-blanching or colored varieties). The plants are usually ready for harvest 7 to 12 days after blanching.
  • Brown heads indicate a boron deficiency in the soil. Drench with 1 tablespoon of borax in 1 gallon of water. (Avoid getting boron on other plants.) Or, provide liquid seaweed extract immediately; repeat every 2 weeks until symptoms disappear. In the future, add more compost to the soil.
  • For white varieties, pink heds can indicate too much sun exposure or temperature fluctuations. Purple hues can be due to stress or low soil fertility.
PESTS/DISEASES HARVEST/STORAGE
  • Plants are usually ready to harvest in about 50 to 100 days, depending on variety, or 7 to 12 days after blanching.
  • When the heads are compact, white, and firm, then it is time to harvest them. Ideally, the heads will grow to 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
  • Cut the heads off the plant with a large knife. Be sure to leave some of the leaves around the head to keep it protected.
  • If the heads are too small, but have already started to open up, they will not improve and should be harvested immediately.
  • If the cauliflower has a coarse appearance, it is past maturity and should be tossed.
I already feel exhausted just by understanding what it takes to grow cauliflower! No wonder it didn't work last year! Well, I already feel some kind of way, but let's see! 
Varieties that I planted: Snowball white, True purple, Yellow. Seeds sown on 9/17/2020. Pictures are taken on 10/1/2020.
Picture
10/13/2020. It is growing! 
10/23/2020. Progress!